The 1st expedition

October 1997

The entry into this region is so controlled that the number of visitors are limited to less than one thousand a year. Mustang remains a small kingdom of Tibetan culture with extraordinary countryside, plateaux of more than 3500 M ALTITUDE AND BOXED-UP VALLEYS THAT OFFER US THE SPECTACLE OF DEEP CANYONS.

No plants are visible to our eyes, an arid land continuously swiped by the wind that dominates this kingdom. Indeed, this country of the Lo has suffered several general dry seasons that stroke the Tibetan. The water levels of the lakes and rivers have lowered considerably and the forests are disappearing.

Animals play an important role in this region, with the nanny ghost being the protecting deity of the Lo Mantang (the kingdom), horse skulls being the best defence against the demons. The adventure begins at Kagbeni, located above the village of Jomosom. After a police check and my team (me and four mules), proceed with our entry into the restricted area, into a chain of mountains that separates the valley in the form of a basin of the western region of the eastern part of the country. There are about a dozen villages in this region that are situated along the Kali Gandaki rivers.

Our first stop is at Samar, Where we warm up and dry ourselves near the fireplace in the only restaurant in the village. It is in a smoky ambience that I see two women in Tibetan traditional costume adorned with silver ornaments and precious stones, the most numerous being the bright orange colored corralling necklaces alternating with turquoises. Tibet is three days walk away, and here we are drinking its celebrated salted tea.

As soon as the rain stops, we proceed on our way towards the Nya-la located at an altitude of 3950M. at the border of Mustang. We gather a stone in order to place it at the summit of the hillock that we are going to pass on the col.
In the desert, only a rainbow shows us the direction towards the Lo kingdom. The track is magnificent with Tibet and its snow-capped mountains in the background. At about 4 in the afternoon we break camp for Geling.

Finally, I find my self in the country of the unicorns, the Tibetan tongues and writings without any trace of Chinese. The oppression suffered by the Tibetan is present just behind these snowed peaks but here tranquillity and the secret of the times long gone rule.
Dawn breaks, we walk on the Tramar track where met the local in habitants who must be on their way to attend a religious ceremony.
The men are dressed in the Tibetan chuba and carry enormous and expensive belts. The women are even more beautiful in their hand-women chuba, each one of them wearing a flowing silk blouse of lively colors with their chest covered by a cape that is held in place by a very large oval silver fastener in the shape of a peacock. Then a bit farther up on the high plateau, we find a troop of goats with their shepherd who advises us to fasten our steps towards the next village, pointing to the heavy dark clouds hanging over the tops of tye mountains. Thunderstorm catches up with us in the village of Marang where we stop over in a house.